The Dressmaker's Muse: Jackets

I have always loved Jackets. When McCalls sponsored a Bomber Jacket Sew Along last fall, I decided it might be fun to sew along and try out their patterns using materials from my stash.

First I made a sample jacket from Butterick 6181. I added black piping around the sleeve seams, stripes on the bands for interest, and a lining. It was easy to make and turned out well, but I did not care for the shape.

I was afraid McCalls 7100 would fit too much like a sweatshirt, but gave it a try and was pleasantly surprised. I loved the fit. I used brown faux leather for the front and back, and a very soft, lightweight brown denim for the sides and arms.

I embellished the front with the Painted Roses design, #4079, from Urban Threads. The jacket pattern has no lining, but as I love lined jackets I added one in a blue and brown stripe.

I liked the fit and style of this jacket so much I made a second one. This time I used a soft black faux leather for the body, and a heavy wool-like polyester for the sleeves and sides and I lined it with black brocade. Cuffs, collars, and zippers were purchased from WAWAK. This jacket is very warm. I embroidered Urban Threads #1454 Koi and Lilies on the back, and one single lily on the front.

I added a cell-phone-sized welt pocket to the front of the lining and embellished it with a tiny dragon applique created using Urban Threads #13803, Passport to China-Dragon.

The challenge is long over, but I wanted to make a spring jacket. I spent a lot of time distressing and fatiguing my army green cotton duck yardage to soften it and give it some character. I used the washer, dryer, and clothesline, along with a variety of laundry products for this. Butterick 5927, view D was my starting point. This basic double breasted pattern is very simple and lends itself to achieving the military look I was after.

I made the sleeves the focal point of the jacket. I carefully combined the upper sleeve of B5927 and the lower sleeve of V1036, eliminating the bell shape at the bottom. I love the seaming detail on the Vogue sleeve.

I embroidered Urban Threads #6403 Elven Court Knot Cascade as a monocolor design on the top half of the sleeve prior to assembly. I also added plackets to the shoulders using a shortened version of the back placket pattern. The jacket has a dark green peach skin lining and military style buttons. It is extremely comfortable to wear.