Saturday, October 3, 2015

Steampunk Corset Jacket

The idea for this jacket had been rolling around in my head for a while. Fall is a very busy time for me, and even though I was buried in work, a design contest at Urban Threads motivated me to get it done. Sewing time was dear. Between doing alterations for others and gathering and canning my garden produce, it was a stretch to get it done. It was worth it, though- the jacket won!
I really enjoyed making it- lots of photos below!


I started by making a pattern. The math was more complicated than usual. This jacket is unique in that it is made in two individual pieces. The lacing up the back literally holds it together. Embroidery and lace work had to be planned out very carefully in advance, and done before the jacket was assembled. All the embroidery was done with an embroidery machine. 

The most challenging embroidery was the cut work on the lower sleeve. There was stitching, then cutting, and thread changes, then the addition of soluble stabilizer. It was worth the effort, though! I backed the cut work in silver satin. I also made piping of silver satin for trim. 

Lace cutouts needed to match down the back and be in place before I inserted the grommets. I used top quality metal grommets for the lacing, as well as boning next to the grommets so the jacket won't lose it's shape.

The lapels are embroidered with a steampunk clockwork rose pattern from Urban Threads- the creator of all the designs used on this jacket.

Metal rivets, hot fix metallic studs, and decorative silver buttons add the finishing touches. The jacket closes with heavy duty hooks tucked in behind the silver piping so they are not visible. The jacket is fully lined in a jaunty navy and brown stripe.

If you are interested in owning this jacket, it is available here: Corset Back Jacket

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